Kashmir : The Contested Paradise!
Led Zeppelin had written a song after its name to signify an 'idea of life being an adventure and being a series of illuminated moments.' To some Kashmir is jannat on earth, to others it is the crown of India, and yet others take it as a contested place whose beauty surpasses its turmoil. To me Kashmir has been a poetry that unfurled like a flower with each passing day, and bloomed to its glory in my imagination once I had bid adieu to it. I had visited Kashmir in early spring, when the snow was frigidly stale but running water had sneaked under its cover and the buds of spring had just woken up from their winter slumber.
The craggy serpentine roads winding its way around the lower Himalayan hills like a scarf unfolds like an untold story that takes you from Jammu to Kashmir. I had made friends of the floating clouds and the shrivelled streams cut through the craggy terrain with mirth.
Nausea can batter your body to no measure. Stop at one of those road-side stalls and enjoy a plate of the special Kashmiri rajma-chawal (rajmash or kidney beans with rice), before continuing further to reach the capital. It's a picturesque painting that conjures before your eyes— charming gable-roofed houses and tall poplar and willow trees standing tall against the blue-green hills and the silver shimmery expanse of the lake.
A befuddled mind and a sore body needs no more rejuvenation than the breathtaking view of a lush lake dotted with shikaras and houseboats. As against popular opinion, I'd say, 'Stay in a houseboat'. I did for one. Fall asleep to the lapping lullaby of the lake and to the water's cool chill that rises up through the woods of the boat. The old iron chimney crackled with wood fire as I let the essence of Kashmir seep in to me along with the rustic heat. I have watched the lake eat up the sun, and I have watched the sun bleed out of the lake's womb--an uninterrupted cycle much like our own lives. Rent a shikara and row around the lake. Hotels and shops line its banks and snow-clad hills overlooks it.
But beneath the mesmerising beauty of nature, lies a more complex politics of human reality. It is a contested land. Everyone desires this mysteriously beautiful lady, Kashmir, hidden beneath the black veil of terror. Land and water,too, is torn by it. Business has compelled people on land (hoteliers) to discourage tourists to stay on water (in house boats), and once on water you would be discouraged to be on land. There are markets both on land and on water. The floating market is not atypical of Thailand alone!
Follow the cedar-lined winding road that leads to the white mountains. The serene white mountains against the blue sky beckon you to its royal high gardens and beautiful gurgling springs.
One of the beautifully manicured Mughal high gardens of Kashmir, Chashma-i-Shahi, was laid out in the 1600s during Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan's rule.
Climb still further till moss-green grass and ferns along the mountain slowly turn to powdery snow that wraps the mountain tops. Go ahead and reach Gulmarg. It's a snow village. Several feet-deep snow blankets the entire village—from treetops to houses, bridges and lakes.
When the village is still snow-clad, try the several winter adventure sports like a gondola ride, riding a sledge, motor skiing, zorbing and others. Sonamarg, further away from Gumarg, is equally entrancing and mesmerising.
Drink a serving of kesar and almond infused local tea, Kahwa. The aromatic saffron tea is laced with almonds and other herbs. It's sweet taste is as invigorating as is its aroma. Kesar (saffron, India's best available in Kashmir) and almond is said to keep you warm from the cold bites of the white mountains.
The white mountains almost become a fairy land, far too idyllic and romantic to be true, once you are in the plains of the valley. But on a rainy day the swollen lake is no less a sight to behold! The glassy lake hums a pitter-patter song as the clouds pour down on it.
Before bidding goodbye to this lake city of Kashmir, take a stroll in the main square of Lal Chowk. Tall willow trees stand sentinel to the charming boutiques and shops that line the square. See this lake city off with a handfull of wild bloom and a earful of the lapping sounds of the Dal Lake.
As descent begins, stop at Pampore if you are to buy Kashmiri walnuts and saffron. Look to your left or to your right--the lush yellow-green fields are a gift of April. The burst of colour adds character to the muted serenity of the place.
Crossing Pampore, climb higher up to reach Pahalgam. Blue mountains billowing smoke and days-old snow take you to this beautiful hilly town.
Visit Betaab Valley in Hajan, Phalgam to watch the chilly stream meander by while you stand on a frozen ground.
The river is fed by the melting ice, as spring makes way to summer. The grey brown of winter is slowly turning towards to the sun to be washed in warm colours of summer.
Has the time to get back to the chores of daily life come?Let's hide in the shadows of Kashmir's valleys till the dreams last and reality's light creeps upon us!